– Can you tell us what kind of blades would be best for such bigger saw-mill, or do you sell such yourself? I mean, everyone sells their blades, but as I saw your video, I understood clearly that you are not just a sales-man, but know your stuff. – You seem to know a lot about blades and that is something we miss. – As this video is on Youtube and people there can’t see, or maybe does not look for information about what kind of wood you are sawing in each clip, maybe you could write on the piece of wood “tulipwood”, “beech” and maybe even the thickness that the blade goes through? We, who are spending much time at the computers buy nowadays mostly via internet. On the other hand, the firms here are still haven’t understood the fact, that nowadays they can’t have high prices for everything that is “a more special product than eggs”. To put it very frankly, here in Finland the sellers usually just sell, they do not know so much about what they are selling, that is left for the customers to find out. The saw-mill is described here in different posts: Īnd to buy something within EU is nowadays just a piece of cake. Why I ask, is that we here (Finland) are going to build home-made log band-saw(s) together with different people. Enjoy!Īs I understand you live in Britain? Anyhow within EU. I apologise now for the quality – next time, I’ll definitely look at installing some form of temporary lighting!! I didn’t want any background music so you could the performance of the saw (if you listen beyond the vacuum…). beech, stood on edge destined for someone’s woodburner because of all the splits. tulipwood ( European – which is pretty ‘gummy’ in its own right) and a great lump of 5x3in. Unfortunately, I didn’t have any deep sections of pine in the workshop today so, I’ve had to make do with 4in. I’m sure these blades are ideal for deep-ripping softwoods, where resin and pitch will make a mess of any standard bandsaw blade. These thin-kerf Fastcut blades are much like a regular skip-tooth pattern blade… Except, between each of the larger teeth, you’ll find a smaller tooth inside the gullet – the aim of this design is to improve the rate at which sawdust is removed and to maintain the cutting speed/feed rate without over-heating or stalling the blade. I’ve been eager to try this one out since it arrived and, today, I even managed to shoot a couple of brief videos to show you how it performs. I’ve been happily using a ½”x4tpi thin-kerf blade since December but today’s post is all about a “ Fastcut” from the Supertuff range. As mentioned in a recent post, Ian John is back in business trading under the name of Tuff Saws.

Supertuff fastcut